During the late 1950’s, Japan was searching for a landmark to effectively symbolise its rise to the global economic powerhouse the country was fast becoming. Tokyo tower had been commissioned and completed by December 1958. From the exterior its ambience is much like the Eiffel tower from which its inspiration was drawn, a looming structure that boasts strength and solidarity as you stare up through its mesh of steel supports. Its distinct triangular silhouette has been frequently used in anime and Japanese cult film to give an instant sense of location, sometimes little more than a red and white pin head on the horizon of a slanted city span; often a direct homage to its Parisian counterpart in classic French cinema. Arriving at the base by eight o’clock I’m accompanied by a rush of well organised tourists, also aiming to reach the observation deck as night falls.
Tokyo is modern life on an immense scale. The scene is not so much blocked by skyscrapers but instead defined by their presence. Whereas most city scapes see urban development become slowly dispersed into outskirts in the distance, perhaps drawn to a halt by a coast or mountain range, the view from Tokyo tower is totally undiluted. Even from a height of 250 meters the borders of the worlds most populous city fade into an ambiguous grey band in all directions. Every line of sight is as impressive as the next revolution- tower blocks plastered with colourful advertisements flash across wide streets, railway tracks rise above the canopy then drop or curve out of sight; the mass of steel and glass is broken up by perfectly cut gardens, parks and baseball diamonds. There is a sense that every valuable square metre has been considered and used to its full potential. As it gets dark Tokyo switches on; a wave of florescent symbols and Japanese characters ping silently into life. Within a matter of minutes the vast, incomprehensible landscape has been transformed into a moving sea of light, each individual building as distinct in its own decoration as the next.
The best way to cut a path into the heart of Tokyo is by tackling the tube, squeezed between immaculately cut businessmen and androgynously dressed teenagers: piercings, eyeliner and punk-hair against black suits and gold watches, both effortlessly fashionable in their own respect. Each station is personalised with its own electronic jingle. The familiar opening bars of Astro boy’s theme greet the train as it hisses into Shibuya terminal, the unofficial centre of fashion, music and nightlife; a deep end plunge into Japanese culture. It was here that the cherub faced cyborg (with human emotions and robot aesthetics- Astro boy is said to see more beauty in the mechanical shapes of cubes than the organic shapes of flowers) took root in his underground fight against crime, evil and injustice. The stairs of the platform funnel up a spotlessly clean subway out onto the street. My anticipation is akin to a football player stepping out to a packed stadium; Shibuya preparing for a weekend is a sudden shock. The silently blinking fluorescent patterns that have become a signature feature of the Tokyo skyline sound like a chaotic roar. Massive TV screens look down from all angles, screens that blend into one overpowering hit- high energy game shows, car adverts, Starbucks, pigtails, short skirts and knee high stockings, anime graphics, American hip hop giants and their J-pop equivalents, gadgets, beer, baseball, crowds. A stream of traffic flows smoothly round in a perfect curve. With barely enough time to think there’s a complementing flick of red and green lights; the road becomes a pavement and the crowd surges instinctively over. There’s an exact centre where two intersecting zebra crossings meet, a point of potential collision. This is a point of vast openness, where the sky suddenly has a definite presence. The flashing green man on the opposite side seems far away. I think back to the view from Tokyo tower, the incomprehensible, seemingly infinite scale of the city. It’s all up to chance from here onwards: just walk.
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