The Nilgiri Mountains have long been considered a base camp for European travellers in South India. Hill stations dating back to the British Raj dot the densely forested landscape, connected by dirt tracks that cut steep tunnels through the undergrowth. Hair pin bends climb steadily up to the small town of Ooty- proclaimed ‘little England’ by explorers thanks to its cool climate. After sweating in the pre-monsoon heat of Chennai, the light cloud of drizzle that smothers the wooden houses comes as a blessing. Over 100 years earlier, whilst enjoying the same mountain retreat, Rudyard Kipling chose the Nilgiris for the setting of his legendary Jungle Book.
My over night bus arrives at Charing Cross station as Ooty awakes. The driver helps me undo my bicycle that’s been strapped to the roof, the paint’s been scratched and the bell is missing. It’s the same Hercules bicycle I bought in Puducherry, an old British throwback; a piece of history on wheels. Considering the heavy pummelling it’s received from overhanging branches I’ve got off lightly. I cycle down to the town centre, trying my best to avoid the muddy puddles. Men in fleeces and woolly hats yawn and smoke BD’s. Despite being out of the tourist season, it’s easy enough to find somewhere to stay- I check into a cheap hotel and dump my rucksack. During the afternoon it starts to get genuinely cold. I’m invited to join a group of guys squatted around a small roadside fire, skilfully maintained by the occasional splash of petrol. Tomorrow it’s a downhill ride through the forest; I’m told that if I leave before eight I should reach the town of Mettupalayam by early evening.
The road immediately below overlooks heavily aromatic tea plantations, the women smile at me as I pass. They crop the plants with machine like precision, tossing the leaves over their shoulders into wicker baskets. As I move sharpy downwards, the landscape slowly transforms from neat cultivated fields to wild untamed vegetation. The occasional “do not overtake on the curves” does little except instil the fear of this actually happening. Monkeys scatter into the trees as I noisily make my descent. It becomes difficult to round the bends without picking up speed and skidding of the track, I begin to suspect that my back brake hasn’t recovered from the bus journey. The path opens up and Coonoor, the next hill station on the route, comes into view on the opposite valey.
Coonoor is much more rugged, instantly appearing less tourist oriented than Ooty. Situated 250 feet below, the sudden temperature difference puts the landscape transformation into perspective. Above the horizon Ooty is already hidden in the clouds. Many of the workers on the Nilgiri tea plantations live here- there’s a strong sense of community spirit. The small hill station offers traditional vegetarian Tamil food from its many cafes. A spicy side dish of potatoes or lentils is dwarfed by a mountain of rice, served on a banana leaf that can be discarded onto the pavement after eating, a treat for a passing cow. The towns booming tea industry ensures a regular flow of trucks and bullock carts on the surrounding roads, the traffic adding to the challenge of trying to descend at a controlled speed. However, after about half an hour of intense vehicle dodging a side road leading to Mettupulayam diverts me back into the jungle.
From Coonoor down it begins to feel like proper Jungle Book territory, all comparisons with England have long been left behind. With the exception of King Louis the Burmese orang-utan, regular sightings of all Walt Disney’s popular adaptations can be made on tours from the near by national parks: panthers, sloth bears, pythons, vultures, wild elephants and even the occasional Tiger. On my budget I have to make do with monkeys. After a few hours the track flattens out, slowly developing into a busy road as I arrive in Mettupulayam. Situated at the base of the Nilgiris the town has a direct rail link back to Chennai, the state capital. My hotel has an impressive view of the hills, giving reality to the distance I’ve travelled. The state of my bicycle reflects the intimacy I’ve experienced with the landscape; chalk stained tyres, blunt splinters of coconut shells, mud, grass, oil. The Nilgiri Mountains rise in a dark green oppression, looking down at me as I look up, basking topless in the evening sun.
Clyde Macfarlane
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