The awe-inspiring Andes
Sat on a tumbledown wall sipping a beer, you are blinded by the reflection from the water.
Although there isn’t a cloud in the sky and the massive expanse of fresh water is a bright, sparkling blue, it’s freezing. Snow caps the mountains surrounding the highest navigable lake in the world.
Lake Titicaca seems quite detached from the hustle and bustle of Lima’s busy streets and a world away from the sweaty, sticky intensity of the northern jungle or the baking coastal deserts. The creator of Peru seems to have taken every extreme terrain that happened to be lying around and crammed them into one incomprehensibly diverse South American country.
Packing for a seven-week tour of Peru is a challenge, even if you don’t mind wearing the same boxers for a few days in a row. You need your thermals for the Andes, your bush hat for the deserts and plenty of mosquito guard for the Amazon. Oh, and lots of books for the many, many hours spent on buses.
Adrenaline junkies can rejoice in one of the cheapest places in the world to have terrifyingly terrific experiences. Starting out in Lima, Peru’s coastal capital, you can jump off the cliffs and float over the crashing waves below. Not bad for a five-minute walk from your hostel. Surfers could quite happily spend a month working their way down some of the biggest, and most consistent, breaks on earth.
And then there are the mountains. Without a doubt, the Andes are one of the most awe-inspiring and dramatic ranges in the world, running the length of a continent and dominating the daily lives of millions of people.
The possibilities they offer are in keeping with their scale. Mountain biking, climbing, trekking, white water rafting, canoeing, skiing; the list is endless. OK, you may think you can do all of these things in any range of mountains, but not like this. In Peru you can easily undertake tours that last weeks, where you see next to nobody and are continuously stunned by the scenery.
Although I’m ashamed to admit it, history isn’t my forte. It takes a seriously imaginative curator to hold my interest in a museum for long. But history in Peru is different. History means Machu Picchu, the abandoned city fortress clinging to the side of the Andes. History means crumbling mud forts in the desert and frozen mummies in the mountains. History is explaining the lives of everyone you meet. Even I couldn’t help but be inspired by this type of history.
Peruvians live in relatively isolated pockets scattered around the country and are almost as diverse as the terrain. The Hispanic and light-skinned people of the capital are westernised, typically holding the most powerful positions in government and business and paying little attention to the rest of the country.
Andean tribes people still spend their days herding llamas, and the handful of people who live on Lake Titicaca’s islands always marry people from their own island. The natives of Amazonia still fish for their food and rely on the river for everything.
Politics is everywhere in this country, and politics often means protest. It is rare to visit a town and not encounter angry marches; road-blocks are common on many of the nation’s highways. Most protests are peaceful and allow disgruntled locals to get their voices heard, but occasionally a spark makes the situation somewhat less savoury.
A visit to a Peruvian market is one of the most intense experiences I have ever had. All of your senses are assaulted simultaneously from a dozen different directions. The smell is overpowering, as flies buzz around the dead chicken feet and fish heads. People are shouting for your attention.
As you look beyond the piles of meat and veg, you see a guinea pig’s head poking out of a cage. You decide that maybe tonight you will be a vegetarian. Rounding a corner, you find various bits of dried animal being sold as remedies for every imaginable problem. Surely we all need some natural aphrodisiacs in our life, don’t we?
Peru is a country full of adventures waiting to be had. With a limitless sense of adventure, basic Spanish and a lot of patience, you can happily while away a couple of months being inspired by the scenery, impressed by the history and amazed at the diversity. Just don’t expect Manchester to seem quite as exciting when you get back.
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