The golden stupa of the Boundhanath temple
Kathmandu in peak season is buzzing with anticipation.
The proverbial base camp of the Himalayas lies in the Nepah Svanigah valley, overlooked by snowy caps on the horizon. The weather is pleasant; high enough at 1300 meters above sea level to give the trekking thermals a trial run, still just about warm enough to enjoy an evening beer on the balcony of a guest house. Tourists talk excitedly, comparing routes and planning overnight stops on maps, red faced and scratching their mountain beards. The centre is crowded with traffic and people- typical of any big city in the Indian sub-continent- exaggerated somewhat by narrow streets that intersect at all angles. At night it’s a maze. A hotel business card is a must have, rickshaw drivers queue up on both sides ready to scoot you back to the safety of your room at a rip off price.
The streets are layered; open faced shops make up the ground floor, selling the same things: maps, jewelry, joss sticks, books, music; outdoor speakers play bollywood hits and Buddhist chanting, no doubt advertising the Himalayan atmosphere alongside Arya Tara fridge magnets in all her six forms- green for enlightenment, white for compassion, red for the magnetism of all good things (including fridges), yellow for wealth, black for power, blue for the transmutation of anger. Thin staircases take you up into the urban canopy, neon signs and lanterns hang outside sports bars. There’s football on. Locals in high set wooly hats and 80’s tracksuits drink and smoke, talking, laughing, watching without interested. The Barman is staring intently at the screen. He likes Beckham- calm, unassuming, good looking. He dislikes Rooney- “too violent” he says with a frown. The bars are open late, jet lagged travelers drift in and out until dawn; outside the streets are still busy.
From the vantage point of the roof tops the golden stupa of the Boudhanath temple can be seen in the distance. Lines of prayer flags hang down, flapping in the wind- red, white, yellow, green, blue, then back to red. It’s a short taxi ride from Kathmandu centre, get lost through backstreets for half an hour and suddenly you’re underneath it; the prayer flags crossing above the road like telephone wires. This is an important holy site in Himalayan Buddhism, large populations of Tibetan refugees live in the surrounding area. Monks in orange robes sit on the wide steps leading up to the Boudhanath dome. Behind the temple the hillside has been eroded into a mass dumping ground, smelly on top of the incense. Monkeys fight amongst the rubbish.
Towards the back end of town stands the Kumari Ghar Palace, home to the Kumari Devi, the living goddess. The title of Kumari Devi is given to a four year old girl through a complex selection process; hopefuls must be blessed among other attributes with a neck like a conch shell, body like a banyan tree, eyelashes like a cow, thighs like a deer, chest like a lion; when she speaks her voice should be as soft and clear as that of a duck. Once chosen she walks barefoot through Durbar square to the palace, the last time her feet will touch the ground before the goddess leaves her body by menstration. She will be carried out of the palace for three days every year during the festival of Indra Jatra, her only exposure to the outside world.
The first impressions of the palace are unflattering- its roof barely reaches above those of the surounding royal houses. The path ahead is blocked by a stained wall with heavy wooden doors. Steps lead up to three small archways, black with shadow. They open onto a courtyard, bordered by high walls and topped by a square of grey sky; closed shuttered windows look down opressively from all sides. As is customary with many sacred Hindu sites photography is strictly forbidden, the allowance of tourists within the building has only been a recent occurance. A window midway up the far wall is half open. The living goddess looks out onto the courtyard; the people below say their blessings, bowing their heads in repect, or simply stare back in silence, aloss without their cameras. Her eyes seem dead, ticking uniformly from person to person, void of curiosity. This is the haunting face of Kathmandu that penetrates beneath the skin: steeped in tradition, emaculately decorated in gold and red as if she were a doll; as incomprehendable and confusing as I must surely be to her, staring back lifelessly into my eyes from within her bedroom.
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